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Daniel W. Fletcher showed his first ever runway show at London Fashion Week Men’s this weekend. The British designer kicked off the Saturday schedule with a booming DJ Tiesto-infused soundtrack and newspaper pasted to the floor. For SS19, in a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white, Fletcher moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.

The first look, a peanut-coloured suit with split-hem trousers and a form-fitting matching vest, set the tone for a collection of fine tailoring with unique stye quirks and Fletcher’s endearing sense of curiosity woven in throughout.

One of the highlights were the prints, a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh, whose clean rope graphics were applied to loose and soft silk shirts in a range of colors, complemented by long brown leather jackets.

In addition to the prints, long cords of actual white rope were looped in to the sides of tops, shirts and blazers, draping down to the knees. This strong visual, combined with exposed threads and loose hems, emphasized the idea that menswear can look somewhat unfinished and still hold appeal.

There was some gender subversion going on, too. Tightly-fitted tops with an excessive amount of sleeve cut out and an exposed back were styled with masculine straight-cut black denim with contrast white stitching, for an androgynous look that will certainly appeal to the more experimental customers out there.

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